In most "not charging" cases the problem is not the device but the accessory. Try a different, known-good cable, a different adapter and a different wall socket. Use a mains adapter rather than a computer USB port or a weak power bank; if the current is insufficient the phone will show that it is charging but never fill up.
Dust and lint that build up in your pocket block the port and break the contact. Shine a light into the port opening and look; if it is blocked it can be cleaned gently with a wooden toothpick while the device is switched off. If charging starts when you move the cable, or the cable sits loosely in the port, the port is worn and needs replacing.
Swelling, very fast draining, sudden shutdowns at high charge or only turning on while plugged in are all signs of a worn-out battery. The fix is a battery replacement. Never touch a swollen battery; if it is punctured it can catch fire.
If charging never starts after water damage or an impact, the problem is often the charging IC on the board (on some models the U2/Tristar) or the protection components. This requires component-level micro-soldering repair; it cannot be solved by changing the cable, the port or the battery. For details see our phone board repair section.
If charging problems started after the phone got wet, corrosion may have formed on the charging lines and the port pins. The further corrosion progresses the harder the repair becomes, so cleaning and inspection should not be delayed.
If the device gets hot enough to burn your hand while charging, unplug it. Overheating can be a sign of a swollen battery or a fault in the charging circuit and carries a safety risk.
If you have tried the cable, adapter and socket, the port is clean and the problem persists, do not open the device yourself. Port, battery and board repair require specialist equipment. Send VS TEKNİK the brand, model and symptom; we measure first and quote afterwards.
A phone screen consists of three parts stacked together: the protective glass on top, the touch layer (digitiser) in the middle, and the LCD or OLED panel that produces the image underneath. Which of these layers is damaged determines the cost of the repair.
If the glass is cracked but the image is sharp and touch works fine, the damage is superficial. On some models glass-only replacement (lamination) is possible and costs less than a complete screen; however it is a delicate process and cannot be done on every model.
If touch does not work in certain areas, or there are coloured lines, black blotches or spreading "ink" on the display, the panel is damaged. In that case a complete screen (panel and digitiser together) replacement is required.
Aftermarket screens are cheaper but there can be differences in colour, brightness, touch sensitivity and features such as True Tone on iPhones. Choose according to your budget and expectations; your repair shop should present both options clearly.
In a hard drop it is not only the screen that suffers: the FPC connector where the screen attaches to the board, or the touch control line, can also be damaged. If touch still does not work or there is no image even after a new screen has been fitted, the problem may not be the screen but the board connector; that is a separate board repair matter.
Continuing to use a phone with cracked glass lets the fragments damage the panel and your finger. Get in touch with your model details for a phone screen replacement; we will determine which layer is affected and offer the right solution.
The following can be board-related: the device not turning on at all, no image while the screen is good, constantly restarting (a hardware bootloop), not charging (while the port and battery are fine), overheating, no signal or Wi-Fi, and problems that appear after water damage. If the fault persists even after parts have been replaced, the cause is most likely the board.
The most common cause of board faults is liquid contact. Water starts corrosion on the circuit and eats away at IC legs over time. Burying it in rice does not help; what is needed is removing the board and cleaning it ultrasonically to strip the corrosion, then repairing the damaged components.
Overheating or a complete failure to turn on usually indicates a short circuit on one of the rails. Which component is shorted is established by monitoring current with a bench power supply, finding the hot spot with a thermal camera, or using short-circuit tracing methods. Parts are never swapped blindly; the location of the fault is found first.
A faulty IC (charging IC, power management PMIC, audio IC, touch IC and so on) is removed and replaced under a microscope with a hot air station. On BGA chips the contact points underneath are reballed. Broken traces are bridged with jumper wire. This is work that demands experience and the right equipment.
The process starts with measurement: supply rails, short circuits and current draw are checked. No price is quoted before the location and cause of the fault are established. This approach avoids unnecessary part replacement and keeps the cost down.
Board repair usually preserves your data; the aim is to get the device working again. However, if the memory chip (NAND/eMMC) itself is damaged, that is a separate and much harder matter. If data is your priority, say so from the outset.
Let us be honest: not every board can be saved. Severe liquid damage or a critical IC that cannot be sourced can make the repair uneconomical. At VS TEKNİK we measure first, tell you the situation and the cost plainly, and leave the decision to you.
Water contact while the device is powered causes short circuits. The most important step is to switch the device off straight away and not to try turning it on or plugging it in to charge. In a phone left switched on, a short circuit can burn out healthy components too.
Burying it in rice is a common mistake. Rice may draw off some surface moisture, but it does not stop the corrosion that has already started inside; meanwhile salts and minerals carry on eating away at the circuit. The time lost makes the repair harder.
Do not dry it with the heat of a hairdryer (heat damages components and adhesive), do not shake the device (you push the water deeper in), do not plug it in to charge and do not keep trying to switch it on and off.
Corrosion inside starts within hours. The correct solution is to remove the board and strip it of liquid residue and corrosion with ultrasonic cleaning. The sooner it is dealt with, the higher the chance of saving it.
As corrosion progresses it eats IC legs and fine traces. At that point the job turns from simple cleaning into board repair and IC replacement; cost and risk both go up.
Keep the device switched off and bring it in as soon as possible, without trying to dry it or turn it on. Tell us which liquid it was exposed to (water, sea water, a sweet or sugary drink); this affects the cleaning method.
A tablet left switched off for a long time discharges completely and will not turn on straight away when plugged in. Leave it on charge with the original adapter for 15-30 minutes and then try. If not even a charging icon appears, move on to the next step.
Try a different cable and adapter. Tablets draw more current than phones; a low-current adapter may not supply enough power to start the device. Also check whether the port is loose or dirty.
Sometimes the device is on but the screen has frozen. Depending on the model, try a forced restart by holding the power and volume down buttons for 10-15 seconds. This clears software freezes and does not harm your data.
If there is sound or vibration but the screen is black, the device may well be on; the problem is the screen or the connector where the screen attaches to the board. In that case the screen and connector need checking.
If you have tried charging and button combinations but there is no light, vibration or sound at all, the problem may be the power button, the charging circuit or the board supply rails. This is identified by measurement and repaired at component level.
If you have tried the first steps with no result, do not force the device. Let us know the brand and model for tablet repair and we will run the power and board checks.
Before blaming the port, try a different cable and adapter. If the problem continues with another cable and the cable moves in the port, the cause is the port.
Frequent plugging and unplugging leads to cracks in the solder joints where the port attaches to the board, or to fatigue in the port pins. The solution is to resolder or replace the port.
Forcing a loose port can lift the board traces (the fine copper lines) it is attached to. At that point the job turns from a simple port replacement into board trace repair. That is why acting early matters.
If the symptoms do not go away with a different cable, do not wait. Get in touch for tablet charging port repair.
Not charging while the port and battery are fine, not turning on at all, hanging during start-up, overheating and problems after water damage can all be board-related. A tablet board is large and has many layers; the fault is located precisely by measurement.
On tablets, charging runs through the port, the charging IC and the power management rails. If the port is fine but it will not charge, the problem is often the charging IC or the supply rail. This is repaired at component level.
Failure to turn on or overheating can be caused by a short circuit on one of the rails. The source of the short is found with measurement and thermal methods, and the relevant component is then repaired or replaced.
Faulty ICs are replaced under a microscope with a hot air station; on BGA components the contact points are reballed. On iPads the board is thick and heat dissipation is difficult, so the work demands experience.
Some situations where you think an iPad will not turn on are in fact caused by activation lock (Apple ID); that is an account matter, not hardware. Having the device's Apple ID and password to hand makes set-up after handover much easier.
On some badly damaged boards the repair may not be economical relative to the value of the device. At VS TEKNİK we measure first and tell you the situation and the cost plainly.
When you press the power button, do the fans spin and do any lights come on? If there is no response at all, check the cable, the wall socket, the extension lead and, on a desktop, the power supply. On a laptop, check whether the adapter light is on and whether the charging port is sound.
If the fans spin and the lights come on but the screen is black, the problem may be the screen, the screen cable, the RAM or the graphics card. On a laptop, connect an external monitor: if you get an image, the panel or cable is at fault; if not, the board is the next place to look.
If the logo appears but Windows does not start, throws an error or keeps restarting, there may be a drive/SSD fault or a corrupted operating system. Before formatting the drive, consider the data recovery option.
Turning on and shutting down immediately can be caused by dried-out thermal paste, a dusty fan or a supply protection cut-out. When the processor overheats, the system shuts down to protect itself. An internal clean and new thermal paste usually solve it.
If there are no lights and no fan movement and the power supply is sound, the problem may be in the board's supply stage. This is identified by measurement and repaired at component level.
If the power and cable checks lead nowhere, do not dismantle the device. Tell us the symptom (won't turn on at all, no display, system does not load, turns on and off) so we can start from the right place.
If your computer still uses a traditional hard drive (HDD), replacing it with an SSD makes boot times and program start-up many times faster. This is usually the cheapest and most effective way to refresh an older computer.
If it stutters when you have many tabs and programs open at once, there may not be enough RAM. Upgrading RAM alongside an SSD brings noticeable relief in multitasking.
Unnecessary programs launching at start-up, a full drive and accumulated temporary files all slow the system down. Trimming start-up items and freeing up disk space makes a difference even without changing hardware.
Dust-clogged fans and dried-out thermal paste force the processor to slow down when it gets hot (thermal throttling). An internal clean and fresh thermal paste restore performance and quiet, especially on laptops.
Sudden freezes, long waits at start-up and file errors sometimes show that the drive (especially an older HDD) has reached the end of its life. Drive health (SMART) should be checked; it is important to back up your data before the fault progresses.
You can use our computer repair service for SSD/RAM upgrades, data migration and internal cleaning; we carry out the upgrade without losing your existing data.
Not turning on at all, the power light coming on without starting, not charging, no display, turning on and shutting down after a few seconds, and problems after a liquid spill can all be board-related. In most cases the faulty section is repaired rather than replacing the whole board.
If there is no light or charge indication while the adapter is plugged in, the problem may be the charging input (DC jack), the charging IC or the supply MOSFETs. These components are identified by measurement and replaced.
Failure to turn on or excessive current draw usually means a short circuit on one of the rails. The main supply and the processor supply rails (VCORE) are measured; the shorted component is located with thermal methods and repaired.
On BGA chips (GPU/chipset) with solder cracks caused by heat, the contact points are reballed or the chip is replaced. To be honest, reballing is not always permanent; the most suitable method is recommended after the situation has been measured.
Liquid spilled through the keyboard lands directly on the board and starts corrosion. With early intervention the board can usually be saved by removing and cleaning it; delay makes the repair harder.
Even if the board is beyond repair, your drive is usually intact; it can be removed and your data recovered. If data is your priority, say so from the outset.
With some severe damage the repair may not be economical relative to the value of the device. We measure first, tell you the cost plainly and leave the decision to you.
First try an original Apple adapter and a known-good cable. Check the light/charge indicator on MagSafe or USB-C. On Intel MacBooks, an SMC reset can solve some charging and power problems. If the battery is completely flat, the device may only start after a few minutes on charge.
If it will not charge while the adapter is sound, the problem may be the charging input, the charge control IC (for example the Tristar/U2 and the related power management) or the supply rail. This requires component-level repair on the board.
If there is no light, sound or fan response whatsoever, the problem is in the power button circuit or the board's supply stage. In that case the board must be measured to find out at which stage the supply is being cut.
On MacBooks, liquid spilled through the keyboard lands directly on the logic board. If there was a spill in the past, the fault can appear days or even weeks later. In that case logic board cleaning and repair is required.
If the checks above lead nowhere, logic board repair is next: measurement, short-circuit tracing, replacement of the faulty IC and micro-soldering. For details see our MacBook logic board repair section.
If there has been liquid contact, bring it in switched off and as soon as possible, without trying to open it. Telling us the model and year (for example the model shown under the display or in the About menu) speeds up diagnosis.
Not turning on, not charging, overheating with the fan running at full speed constantly, no display, some USB/Thunderbolt ports not working and problems that appear after a liquid spill can all come from the logic board.
In the MacBook design the keyboard sits directly above the board; spilled liquid reaches the board by the shortest route. On a live circuit, liquid causes a short circuit and then corrosion. The solution is to remove the board, strip it with ultrasonic cleaning and repair the damaged components. Early intervention dramatically improves the chances of saving it.
A short circuit on the main supply rail (PPBUS) or the lower supply stages causes the device not to turn on at all, or to overheat. Current is monitored with a bench power supply, the hot component is found with a thermal camera or the isopropyl method, and then repaired.
When the charging and power management ICs (for example the Tristar/U2, ISL charge controllers, SMC) fail, they are replaced under a microscope with hot air and, where necessary, BGA reballing. This is delicate work that demands experience.
Fans running at full speed constantly or sudden shutdowns can stem from a temperature sensor, the SMC or a power stage. For an accurate diagnosis, temperatures and supply values are measured; dried-out thermal paste is also renewed.
On newer MacBooks the SSD is soldered to the board, which means the data is tied to the board and there is a data risk if the board is badly damaged. On models with a removable SSD the drive can be taken out and the data recovered. If data is your priority, be sure to say so before work starts.
Let us be honest: severe liquid damage or a burnt-out critical IC can make the repair uneconomical. At VS TEKNİK we measure first, share the situation and the cost plainly, and leave the decision to you.
Hold the power button to switch the device off at once and unplug the adapter. On a live circuit, liquid leads to short circuits and permanent damage. Do not try to turn it back on or plug it in to charge.
Turn the device upside down like an open book (tent position) and let the liquid drain out. Do not press the keys and do not shake it. This is only a first measure; the real solution is cleaning the residue inside.
Putting it in rice, drying it with a hairdryer or waiting for it to dry out does not stop corrosion. Sugary and salty drinks in particular (cola, tea, sea water) are far more aggressive and demand fast action.
Even if the device still turns on, corrosion progresses inside and the fault can appear days later. The correct solution is to remove the board and strip it of liquid residue with ultrasonic cleaning; the sooner the better.
Corrosion eats IC legs and fine traces; the job turns from simple cleaning into logic board repair and IC replacement. Cost and risk both go up.
Keep the device switched off and bring it in as soon as possible, without trying to dry it or turn it on. Tell us which liquid was spilled; it affects the cleaning method.